Turism istoric

Coltii de piatra ai Daciei

Despre vechii daci orice roman stie cate ceva: ca erau uniti, darji, buni constructori de cetati, iubitori de vin, cu umor si, mai ales, ca erau de-ai nostri.

Cu totii am invatat asta la scoala si fiecare a auzit macar o data de cetatile dacilor. Dar una e sa le vezi in te miri ce manuale, si alta e sa fii acolo, sa pipai zidurile, ferestrele, treptele lucrate cu bratele lor de oameni ai muntilor.

De straja muntilor

Cetatea de la Capalna le are pe toate: e construita de daci, ascunsa in munti, ramasa in cronici si, bine­inteles, in inima neamului ca un loc pe care e mai bine sa-l cunosti pe viu, decat din poze. Cum? Urcand pe faimoasa Valea Sebesului si prega­tindu-te, sufleteste, pentru o intalnire la care viseaza orice iubitor de natura si istorie.

Drumul de la Sebes la Capalna e un spectacol cu versanti, belsug de verdeata si casute cocotate pe culmi. Curand, insa, lasi in urma acest peisaj inghesuit, fiindca ajungi la Capalna, unde totul se largeste ca un litoral al muntilor. E lacul de acumulare, cu apele lui adanci si verzui care scalda poalele versantilor ce se inalta, semet, pana sus, spre cetate.

Si acolo, deasupra, cetatea dainuie de peste 2 000 de ani. E doar una din sirul de fortificatii care, pe atunci, stateau de straja la hotarele muntilor. Dacii au ridicat-o pe la mijlocul secolului I i.e.n., cand inca nu erau sub stapanire romana, neavand decat un singur punct de acces, si anume o sa de legatura. Chiar si astazi, este atat de istovitoare calea ce urca, serpuind, prin padurile incalcite de foioase, incat simti pe propria piele ce insemna, odinioara, viata la munte. Dar, odata ce esti sus, uiti de toate, fiindca nimic nu se compara cu bucuria ajungerii sub soare, lipit de cer, unde totul se aseaza in lumina zilei care te-a asteptat sa scapi din stransoarea padurii. Sa nu uitam ca te afli la inaltime (610 m) iar daca te incumeti sa-ti arunci privirea in jos, vezi in miniatura: lacul, ca o baltuca neinsemnata, si sta­vi­larul, ca o jucarie gri, care nu mai are nimic maret. Tot ce conteaza acum e cetatea, monument inclus pe lista Patrimoniului Mondial UNESCO.

Firimiturile istoriei noastre

Sa nu te astepti la o imagine impunatoare cu ziduri, turnuri si porti. Nici vorba de asa ceva. De data asta, farmecul cetatii vine din privelistea stranie a ruinelor. Vremea celor douazeci de secole, precum si un incendiu din timpul celui de-al doilea razboi cu romanii, din 106, si-au pus serios amprenta peste cetate. Asa ca, din ceea ce era odata fortificatia falnica a dacilor, se mai pot vedea ramasite de ziduri, ca niste colti de piatra, apoi trei santuri de aparare cu adancimi variabile, grupate toate intr-un platou oval.E putin ceea ce a mai ramas, asa incat, daca le privesti de sus, resturile de cetate par niste firimituri de piatra.

Arheologii spun ca, pe langa zidul exterior, mai exista unul interior, unde se afla turnul-locuinta; nu lipsea nici turnul de veghe, precum nici cel de la poarta principala. Ca aici au locuit daci o arata si nenu­ma­ratele descoperiri arheologice, intre care vase ceramice, dalti, clesti, vase de sticla, o bratara din pasta de sticla, scripeti, piese metalice de imbracaminte, pinteni, pumnale, var­furi de sulite si sageti. Cele mai multe se gasesc la Muzeul Municipal din Sebes, intr-o colectie care face ca aceasta zestre de piatra, de metal si de cera­mica sa statorniceasca fiinta poporului dac in inima noastra, a romanilor.

Somnul strabunilor

Bun, si-acum o sa-mi zici ca mai bine vizitezi o cetate „in toata regula”, cum sunt cele medievale de la Calnic, Alba Iulia, Sebes sau Aiud. Sigur, nici o problema, avem o zona care musteste de arhitectura veche, bine conservata. Dar te vei lipsi de ceva ce nici una din fortificatiile intregi nu va putea oferi. La Capalna, resturile de cetate te vrajesc tocmai prin batra­netea lor tihnita, prin aceea ca poarta in ele voluptatea unor secole trecute. In zilele noastre, e pustiu acolo, fiindca nu mai trece decat vantul, care scutura iarba crescuta obraznic pe ziduri. Dar e un vant a carui suflare seamana mai mult cu duhurile, in timp ce privelistea din jur e fabuloasa.

Ca e duhul istoriei, ori ca e duhul padurilor din zona, n-o mai stiu. Bine macar ca cetatea exista, inca.

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